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It starts with the fire

A spread of OMA dishes on a wooden table: a stone molcajete of grilled meats, sizzling chicken fajitas, elote, grilled romaine, shrimp and a bowl of birria
Grilled chicken drizzled with a pale green crema over a roasted poblano, with Mexican rice and black beans in tortilla cups
A bowl of birria consommé topped with cilantro and pickled red onion, with chopped onion and cilantro on the side

OMA is a Mexican kitchen, built around a hot grill and a stack of salsas made fresh every morning. Tacos, fajitas, birria, molcajete — nothing here is reinvented, it's cooked the way it's supposed to be.

The long version

OMA is a Mexican kitchen, built around a hot grill and a stack of salsas made fresh every morning. Tacos, fajitas, birria, molcajete — nothing here is reinvented, it's cooked the way it's supposed to be.

The grill runs hot, and everything that touches it — carne asada, the chicken for the mole, the whole fish — gets the same char. The braises go the other way: the birria and the carnitas take most of a day, low and slow, until they fall apart on their own.

What that costs us is convenience. There is no bottled salsa, no sauce that arrives in a bag. The consommé goes on first thing in the morning. Guacamole is made to order. The person handing you a plate probably made part of it.

Grilled chicken drizzled with a pale green crema over a roasted poblano, with Mexican rice and black beans in tortilla cups
A bowl of birria consommé topped with cilantro and pickled red onion, with chopped onion and cilantro on the side

The rest of it is on the menu

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